Are you being counted?

I saw an interesting story in the Romanian press recently: according to the recent census, Romania has lost 1.1 million people in the last year.  Now, considering that the country only has a population of only 19.12 million, that loss is very significant.  Romania experienced another large drop in population in the ten years before that.

That much is believable.  If you go to another European country, you will probably meet a Romanian ex-pat.   My question is, are the ex-pats in Romania being counted?

Continue reading

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Romanian New Years traditions

When you have lived in enough places, trying to find the differences between countries is difficult, it is much easier to find the similarities.

Here are some Romanian New Years Traditions according to the Romanian weekly, Magazin:

New Year’s fish.

Magazin informs us that Romanians may celebrate the New Year with a traditional New Year’s meal, including trout (păstrăv). 

French-speaking countries also have special new years meals, with the seafood in New Orleans being the most famous part of the Reveillon celebrations.

Portuguese also like to eat fish on holidays, but New Year’s does not seem to be fishier than other days.  On Three Kings Day, they have a cake in Portugal called Bolo Rei, or King Cake.  This includes a dangerous game where you can find hard objects including a bean and a toy.  If you get the toy, you get to wear a paper crown.  If you get the bad one, you have to buy next year’s cake.  Some Portuguese ex-pats end up eating the cake on New Year’s or Christmas instead. 

Cakes and fish are also prevalent in other Western European countries.

Twelve grapes

Eating twelve grapes at midnight, one for every month of the year.

I hear the Spanish have a similar tradition. In Spain, they apparently use canned grapes.  There is some debate on whether it is during the countdown or when the bells sound, but maybe it depends on the region.

Magazin claims that the Portuguese do that with figs.  Some older Portuguese remember a similar tradition.  (I remember corn nuts and a yellow flat bean or pulse that you only get at the Portuguese shop).  I have read elsewhere that it is raisins, but in remote areas, they may still eat figs. 

I would not attempt it though, figs are pretty big and hard to eat quickly.  

The French also use grapes. However, they turn them into juice first, sometimes letting the grapes ferment, because it is easier to drink grapes than eat them.  

Mistletoe

To be blunt, this tradition of mistletoe is dated.  I don’t know if it was ever that big, despite being mentioned in Magazin.  Many more people around Cluj buy flowers than mistletoe.

Americans and Brits have a similar traditions, at least according to the movies and music.  

In Cluj, you can buy mistletoe from wondering merchants who come in from the suburbs.  I had never seen mistletoe in real life, so I didn’t know what it was.  One of the merchants followed me for a while, and I ended up buying some. 

The large branches sold by the street merchants are much larger than the twigs you see in the cartoons. I didn’t realise what it was until I brought it home.  Then I was informed of the species of plant.  Apparently, it is still a tradition in some countries to have mistletoe at New Years.  But what is it used for?

Most people holding mistletoe around Cluj will probably be selling it, but I am sure there are still places where it is used for decoration.

In British and Scandinavian mythology, mistletoe was used as a weapon.  And the fruit creates an illegal glue that some people put on branches to catch birds.  Perhaps that is where Roald Dahl got the idea for  The Twits.

Magazin mentions a tradition of kissing under the mistletoe.  I saw that on shows like Scooby Doo.  If you have ever seen that in real life, you can let us know in the comments.

The Belgians just kiss at New Year, no need to buy mistletoe.  We left a crowded party at New Years’ (indoors, no fireworks, danger of elbowing someone’s eye if you attempted to dance), and then when the clock struck midnight, the taxi driver looked back and informed us of the tradition.  “You kiss on New Year.”  I guess that was his way of giving us permission to kiss in his car?  Maybe a Belgian can clarify the tradition for us.

Wishing a Happy New Year 

In Belgium, people who do not talk to you any day of the year will wish you a Happy New Year.  But don’t worry, they don’t go around kissing strangers.   No, they just share warm wishes.

Our first year in Cluj, a complete stranger came up to me to wish me a Happy New Year, with a huge smile.  So it isn’t only Belgium where you can send good wishes to strangers.

Breaking a pumpkin

Okay, I don’t know if we had this anywhere, except maybe in Texas.  The host throws a pumpkin on the floor and depending on how many pieces it breaks into, you have good or bad luck.   The key word is host, you shouldn’t go around breaking pumpkins in someone else’s house.  (Not everyone celebrates that way).

The first time I heard of this tradition was reading Magazin.  This newspaper mixes serious scientific updates, and historical facts with horoscopes, jokes, and an occasional alien sighting.  So, it is like a cross between the American USA Today and Weekly World News.  The British have more direct equivalents in tabloids like The Daily Mail and The Guardian.

However, in Texas, there was a similar tradition of throwing coconuts or watermelons around the Fourth of July.  Usually, the bad luck over there involves getting shouted at and having to clean up the mess afterward.  

Remote parts of Greece and Portugal may have similar traditions.  But, wherever you are, I would check before attempting to throw any kind of fruit on the floor.

Fireworks

Watching fireworks was not mentioned, but we know there will be fireworks.  You can buy them everywhere, and if you go around the center there is likely to be a display.  (Perhaps around Avram Iancu square).  Expect to see these at around midnight.

Britain had some great fireworks displays on New Year, and so do Belgium, parts of Mexico, and many other places.

As with swallowing grapes and throwing fruit, just don’t be stupid around fireworks.  Accidents happen, and getting burnt is not fun.

Special carols

There is no direct English translation for Plugușorul or Sorcova.  It seems to be described as a carol that may involve instruments including bells and whips.  The following website, in Romanian, has pictures and videos that show  https://www.wowbiz.ro/uraturi-de-anul-nou-2023-plugusorul-si-sorcova-versuri-si-video-20279967 

There is also a bear dance.  

These remind us of musical traditions in Latin and Celtic countries, as well as Bavaria, which are also hard to define and translate.  Each country has its own unique tradition which only makes sense when you see it. 

Anyway, these carols, like other traditions, are done with “optimism, love, and goodwill.”

Concerts

This is more of a Cluj tradition, perhaps.  We have visited Christmas markets in other towns, and there are obviously stages being prepared for concerts in the main squares, so I expect a concert in Sibiu and elsewhere.  But Cluj is known as the concert town.  In the Romanian geography game Turistico, while other cities are represented with iconic landmarks, Cluj is represented by a concert stage.

From 10 pm until after midnight, in the main square with the Christmas market, be ready for a crowd listening to the songs.

Happy New Year.

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Happy Carolling to Cluj

Andra, the Romanian pop and folk star, had a little sing-along on the aeroplane on the way from Bucharest to Cluj.  It seems that all the passengers sang along.

The fair under Avram Iancu appears to be closed, but there are still plenty of things to do in Cluj.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cme-LPzqRPe/

English subtitles are not available because on this occasion, she appeared to be singing in English.

Romanian word of the article – Colinde – carols, Christmas songs.  Or Christmas Carols, but Carol as in song, not Carol the King of Romania who brought the first Christmas tree to Romania in 1866.  I guess he was Christmas tree Carol.  (Colind(e) has other translations too.  I just hope you are reading this in English or at least that your translator doesn’t use slang definitions.)

Another popular Christmas tradition is groups of men carolling in shops, raising money for charities.  In the villages around Cluj, or even outside of your window if you look outside, you will see carolling in different costumes.

But why would a plane load of people be flying from Bucharest to Cluj to sing Christmas Carols?  The easy answer would be that they have family in Cluj, so they are celebrating Christmas here.  But that isn’t sensational enough for some of our readers.

According to Thursday’s “Jurnalul” (the Journal, a top Romanian newspaper), carolling has been limited in sector six of Bucharest, something that “not even Ceaușescu would have thought up.”  Unauthorised carolling in that sector is now considered “disturbing the peace.”

The old Romanian “colind” (Carol, Christmas song, not the other type of colind), goes like this.

Sculați gazde nu dormiți
(get up, host, do not sleep)
Vremea a să vă treziți
(It is time for you to wake up)

Other lines are harder to translate.  Automatic translators do word-for-word (motamot), but don’t understand the context.  This translation still isn’t perfect, but we think it makes more sense than old-man Google.

Casa sa vi-o arănjati,
(The house will be tidied up,)

Flori de măr
(apple blossoms)

Și masa s-o încărcați
(and the table filled with food)

(more verses can be found at https://www.versuri.ro/w/rha7. The rest can be translated electronically with more sense.)

When carolers come to your door, it is the tradition to give them covrigi (translated as both bagels or pretzels, but usually pretzels) or other baked goods, nuts, candies or fruit (such as apples).  More recently, money has been given.  According to Jurnalul, those guests who refused to open doors to carollers or who refused to give them a treat for carolling were cursed with a reputation of being anticolind, or anti-caroler.

The newspaper continues that the tradition dates back almost two centuries, and not even the Bolsheviks were able to stop it.  But the new law puts regulations on carols, that they have to follow basic rules.  Of course, carolling is limited to 6-31 December (yes, they can still carol after Christmas), and other regulations are being put in place.

Carollers can be quite loud, and some people are put off by the drums and whips, apparently. (or so the new law assumes).  Normally, carollers will just leave if you don’t open the door.  Now, there are limits.  Music can be made with live voices or instruments, but recordings are prohibited, that is not the strange part.  Apparently, before carolling, carollers need permission from each residents association.  “I am 52 and I never thought that if I wanted to take my grandchildren carolling I would need permission” from each group of residents, said Răzvan to the newspaper.  (No, I don’t know who Răzvan is either.)

There does not appear to be any limitations on carolling in Cluj, however.   (No, I still don’t know who Răzvan is.  It is a common name, maybe he took the flight to Cluj, to carol here.)

We have seen some people drop money out the window at passing carollers, dressed up in furry bear-like suits.

Merry Christmas to you, Răzvan, Merry Christmas to carollers and King Carol and to anyone who happens to be reading this.  And a Happy New Year.

How do you say Merry Christmas in the top languages spoken in Cluj?

🇷🇴Crăciun fericit.

🇶🇦 عيد ميلاد مجيد!

🇯🇲 Happy Christmas!

🇫🇷 Joyeux Noël !

🇮🇹 Buon Natal!

Boldog Karácsonyt!

🇳🇵मेरी क्रिसमस!

🇵🇹Feliz Natal!

Bahtalo Krechuno!

🇺🇦 Щасливого Різдва!

🇻🇳Chúc Giáng Sinh Vui Vẻ!

🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿 Nadolig Llawen!

Did we leave your language out?  Let us know how you celebrate Christmas, and we can add it here.

P.S. Here is another traditional “Colindă de crăciun” with the same first line, sung by Andra and another top Romanian singer, Paula Herlo.  Sărbători fericite.

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Is Cluj run by a ghost?

It is always fun to learn a little about the town you live in. So when we were stuck at home, I took the opportunity to rummage through old newspapers and see what I could find out about Cluj’s mayor, Mr Emil Boc.

You might find the same information that I found in the Ziar de Cluj or Făclia if you read Romanian Insider.  Maybe they read the Romanian newspapers and translate some of it for you.

Emil Boc saved a puppy recently.  He also found an actor who would pay 9000 lei to have a coffee with him.  It must be really good coffee, but anyway, not bad for a dead guy.

But Emil Boc is alive and well, you say.  Sure, his Peugeot is almost fifteen years old, but he took on new responsibilities just this year. Continue reading

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How to find a job in Cluj

If you read the news, you might have read that Cluj is one of the easiest places in Europe to find a job.  Yet some people do not know where to look.   After two years in Cluj, this is what I discovered. Continue reading

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Ancient Roman technology invades Cluj

At the foot of the student culture house (casa de cultura a studentilor), there is no clue where the exhibit is.  You walk in, and you will probably be stopped by a caretaker (or porter, or security guard).  You can ask the porter for directions, or you can run away scared.  (It is best to ask a porter anyway, so they do not think that you are simply lost). Tell the caretaker that you want to go to the Roman exhibit, and they will probably point you in the right direction, upstairs.

When you reached the top, you will probably see no one there, other than the student selling tickets.  Tickets at the door cost 25 lei.  Online, they appear to be 30 lei or 20 for concessions.  That is expensive for Cluj, but you can take photos.

Anyway, I peered in.  I asked if this was the entire exhibit.  I was told there were two rooms.  I thought that I could probably see the entire exhibit without paying and entering.  It was small.

Cluj has some nice small museums, but they do not always have English explanations of the museum pieces.  Sometimes knowing Italian or Spanish can help visitors to understand Romanian, and sometimes there are tour guides that help explain things.

There are currently two small temporary exhibits where most of the pieces do have English explanations.  One is the Ancient Egyptian exhibit at the History Museum, and the other is the Roman Empire – Conquering Technology exhibit at the student house.

Most museums have more than one exhibit.  This was not a museum, it is a student house.  I suppose like a students’ union building in the UK.

The price to enter the Roman Empire exhibit, for a single adult, is 25 lei.  I let that sink in for a moment.  The other exhibit I was considering going to that day costs 10 lei.  But, with Langos in the Christmas market selling for 20 lei, I decided to give it a try.

Of the two rooms, one focused mostly on military technology used to expand the Roman empire and the other on technology that was used to build Rome and its roads.

You can learn how Romans build roads in a straight line, you see an abacus, and there is even a pulley that you can apparently use.  (I assumed that it was all don’t touch until I saw a video on their Facebook page where kids get to try the pulley.)

I would recommend visiting the Facebook page before going in.  But bear in mind that half of what’s on the Facebook page is not actually in the exhibit.  There is an exhibit about ancient Dacia in Bucharest that I really want to go to now, it looks awesome.

Understanding ancient technology may be fun for a school trip.  Maybe there is a group discount that you can arrange.

Now, if you are hoping to see the technology used during the conquest of Dacia, you might be disappointed.   The weapons and armor on exhibit are dated from the Roman invasion of Gaul, over a century before Trajan was even born.  That timespan is like the time between the American Revolution or the Battle of Waterloo to the Second World War. Instead, it seems like something right out of an Asterix film or the classic Sparticus film.

Apparently, the exhibit comes from Milan, so there are a couple of posters on the wall in Italian.  There are also a few in Romanian without English translation.  However, all the technology has a Romanian and English explanation.

The exhibition goes on until the 23rd of December, 2022.

Imperiul Roman – Tehnologia învingătorilor | Facebook

Expozitia Imperiul Roman – Tehnologia Invingatorilor (entertix.ro)

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Sora is bouncing back

Last year, one of the other English language papers reported that Sora was a shadow of its former self.  We went to visit it during the lockdown, and there was not a lot to see.  Though there were a few nice shops, many of the shops were empty.

But a visit in late 2022 shows that the shopping center is bouncing back.  The sign outside looks nice again, the street work is completed, and best of all there are a variety of shops to choose from.  From modern stylish clothing to hoodies to those traditional shirts that Romanians wear on their national day, there are gift ideas for nearly everyone.  And if you just want to read a magazine in English or French, there is a newsagent on the bottom floor that sells a few.  I never thought I would see Paris Match in Cluj, but there it was.  Other than English and French, (and of course, Romanian), there appeared to be another language that we haven’t yet learned.

Upstairs, there is still work to be done.  Many of the shops upstairs are available, and some have moved downstairs, but there is a beautician that works through appointments only.  Do they speak English?  We haven’t tried, they understood our Romanian.  Also upstairs is a dance store, which sells dance shoes and outfits for all ages.  There is also a beautician of some sort that might be opening soon.

There are also those delicious comfort food stands outside, if you feel like getting a snack after you leave.

Like many places in Cluj, Sora is recovering well after the pandemic.  The foot traffic is slowly returning, and they sell beautiful clothing at reasonable prices.

Anyway, while some shops seemed to stopped business during the restrictions from the pandemic, the location has enormous potential.  There are spaces open for anyone considering starting a shop of their own.  Looks like an opportunity.

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Mini Christmas market in Northern Cluj

You might not have been to the Iris neighborhood unless you live there.  North of the river Somes, North even of the train station, you will find the Piața Karl Liebknecht.

There is a mini Christmas market in the Karl Liebknecht square, a trial from 6 December to 11 December.

Here is the important part, the market does not start until 4 pm.  A lot of newspapers left that out.  If you go around 2pm, only one stall is open.

Many newspapers had photos of the wrong Christmas market, the one in central Cluj, but fortunately, Monitorul had photos of the correct market.

It is a small community market, interesting for locals.  From central Cluj however, a few of the roads are currently blocked.  If you really want to see it, we suggest going to the train station and taking the tram.  If you attempt to walk, bike, or scoot there, you might take an hour longer than your maps app tells you.

Cum arată mini târgul de Crăciun din cartierul Iris? Fotografii inedite de la deschidere (monitorulcj.ro)

 

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Cluj Art degrees worth millions

A graduate of the University of Art and Design (UAD)  in Cluj, Andrian Ghenie, has sold a painting in Hong Kong for seven million Euros.

UAD is supposedly the lowest ranked University in Cluj Napoca.  How do they do the ranking?

Perhaps by how much the average graduate earns.  Other rankings, like student satisfaction, mean very little.  Some people think they are supposed to say that they are satisfied no matter what, while others grew up complaining.

Anyway, it is a nice painting.  We have been to the graduate show from the UAD, and some of their students have a lot of talent.  So we might hear about other artists making big sales.

Adrian Ghenie has sold other paintings for a lot of money.

Un tablou al pictorului clujean Adrian Ghenie, vândut cu 7 milioane de euro – ZiardeCluj.ro

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Successful metro bidder to be announced early next year.

According to Railway Pro, there are two bidders for the Underground Metro (Subway, to Americans) in Cluj Napoca.

Faclia de Cluj reports that the winning bidder will be announced early next year.

Cluj Napoca does not have an underground system at the moment, but it has a useful network of trams and buses that connect most of the city.  Locals often complain about a lack of parking spaces, and cars can be seen parked all over the sidewalk. Locals will often leave their phone numbers on the windshield, in case they accidentally park in someone’s way, so that the complainer can ask them to move.

The anticipated metro is projected to cost almost three billion Euros, or nine billion Ron.  That is a lot of Langos and Palanets!

More seriously, the average wage in Cluj is 24 thousand Ron.  That means the metro will cost 375 thousand annual wages.  There were only 326 thousand people in Cluj according to the 2011 census, many of which were retired or students who were not working.

Will the metro encourage more people to take mass transit, and leave more parking spaces free?

Bidders unveiled for Cluj metro project (railwaypro.com)

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